Dayton Ohio Chapter ASG

Measurements: The Foundation for Making Clothes that Fit
Julie Johnson
September 15, 2025

Measurements and Patterns:

Accurate measurements will help ensure choosing the best sized printed pattern.

1. Circumference measurements – Bust, Waist and Hips are the most common
   given on a pattern envelope.
2. Additional measurements such as Back Waist Length, Front and Back
   Armhole Width, Seat Depth, etc. are useful for fitting garments, but not
   mandatory for choosing which pattern size to purchase.
3. Depending on the pattern (Big 4 or Independent) we may need to blend into
   multiple sizes for an accurate fit for our body.
4. Printed or PDF patterns that are multi-sized can be confusing. Highlighting
   the size(s) needed for cutting helps ensure getting the right initial size for
   fitting.

Big 4 and some Independent Patterns are based on a standard Sloper/Block/Basic

1. This sloper/block/basic for the Big 4 is based on statistical averages that are
   unique to each company.
2. There is no universal standard used by the different pattern companies.
3. Only 2% of the population can take a Big 4 pattern and sew it up and have it
   fit right out of the pattern envelope.
4. Some Independent Pattern Makers (e.g. Sandra Betzina) base their patterns
   on measurements from currently measured people or perhaps their own fit
   preferences.
5. Independent Pattern Makers may use slopers/blocks/basics based on measurements they believe make the most sense for the patterns that they make.
6. Comparing our body measurements to the measurements given on a printed
   pattern are essential in ensuring the fit we want in a garment.
7. We don’t have to like them, but we do have to know them to use them to
   make the clothes we want fit the way we want. 

Taking Advantage of the Pattern Envelope:

1. 1. Depending on the company, the pattern envelope can provide a wealth of
   information e.g. written descriptions, photos or line drawings may indicate the
   general fit or silhouette the garment should have. The looser the fit description, the
   more design ease has been included in the pattern.
2. Descriptions of how much ease is built into the garment design include terms such
   as Close Fitting, Fitted, Semi-Fitted, Loose Fitting or Very Loose Fitting. The
   specific amount of ease will vary from style to style.
3. The back of the envelope gives a chart of the body circumference measurements
   intended for each pattern size.
4. Knowing your personal measurements and the intended ease of the garment can
   help you decide which patterns to purchase and which size(s) to cut out. 

Some pattern companies include finished garment measurements on the back of the envelope.

1. 1. Each pattern company is different in this regard. Many of the Big 4include the Back Length from the Base of the Neck, some may or may not include Lower Edge Width or Bust or Hip measurements.
   2. Other non-Big 4 and Independent pattern companies may or may not
      include this information.

Taking Advantage of the Pattern:

1. Some pattern companies include finished garment measurements on the pattern itself, if provided, they are usually found at the Bust, Waist and Hip.
2. If finished garment measurements are NOT given, it may be necessary to go “Old School” and measure the pattern at our key body circumference points to determine the finished garment measurements.
3. Remember to subtract seam allowances, pleats and darts!
4. Remember that Finished Garment Measurements reflect the intended body
   circumference plus wearing and design ease for the garment size.

What to Measure and Why:

• To get the best fit from the clothes we make, we need to know our measurements beyond the Bust, Waist and Hips.
• Bust, Waist and Hips are circumference measurements, which are important for fit, but not the whole story
• We also need length/distance measurements to assure that our clothes fit and allow our body to move comfortably
• Length/Distance measurements include Back Waist Length, Waist to Hip, Seat Depth, Front and Back Armhole Width, Shoulder to Waist, etc.

Why do we really need all these measurements?
To perfect the pattern to our unique body measurements and shape so the garment we are making will fit us well.

The following charts (from Threads Magazine, Essential Measuring Points for Fitting a Pattern, Issue 181, October/November 2015) may help show how the different measurements we take correspond to the pattern pieces we use in garment making.